this is certainly a brief survey of the vast array of hats that comprise philip treacy's unbelievable oeuvre. head milliner for chanel, alexander mcqueen, and now valentino, treacy's fantastical, avant-garde creations have produced some of fashion's most provocative and controversial looks.
i had the distinct pleasure of interviewing mr. treacy at an avent held at neimans yesterday, and was thrilled with the opportunity to pick the brain of one of the most innovative designers of our time. the interview will be posted on secondcitystyle.com next week, and i'll be sure to let you all know when it's posted.
i know that valentino isn't designing anymore (it always makes me sad when a house's namesake steps down...i mean, i still discuss current ysl as if ysl is still the mastermind behind all that magic), but, despite the critics' less than glowing reviews, i really think that pier paolo piccioli and maria grazia chiuri did a wonderful job. i think this collection is stunning, especially the show's closing gowns.
there's something so "masquerade" about the collection. the overdone lace, incredible texture -- i love the scalloping, the tiers of ruffles --everything is so rich and decadent, like a highly involved piece of chocolate cake. and those shoes! oh, the shoes. gold satin with enormous black bows adorning the heels...i could live in those shoes forever. when prada reinvented lace, i was a little hesitant, finding the whole look a bit aged and dowdy. yet there's a delightful youthfulness to piccioli and chirui's designs...frivolity in the shorter dresses, and unbelievable elegance in the longer gowns. i love that, and am drawn to their attention to the material.
all and all, reviews be damned, everything needs to be shaken up a bit.
Tonight I saw "Valentino: The Last Emperor," followed by a special Q&A with the director, Matt Tyrnauer, and it was tres tres magnifico. The fashion was beautiful to look at as Valentino is, of course, a genius, but, as the director said, the film is a love story about Valentino and his partner of 45+ years, Giancarlo Giametti. And what a story it is! The two are brilliant together...both possess fanatical exuberance and an unwavering flair for the dramatic. The film is a veritable delight for any fashion lover, and when you have special cameos by the likes of Andrew Leon Talley flipping out about caftans Valentino has made him for his 45th anniversary couture show, and Karl Lagerfeld commenting to Valentino that "compared to us, everyone else makes rags," you're in for a pretty special treat. The man also has six pugs and a head seamstress who matches his sass beat for beat, without batting an eye. Magic.
Take a look at the trailer, if you've not yet seen the film:
There's also a great article on The Cut, an interview with Valentino and Giametti. The way that these two exchange banter is one of the best parts of the film. It's candid comedy over and over and over again, supported by a staunch foundation of love. They reminded me a little of Yves and Pierre...but far less dysfunctional.
In any event, check this film out. It was the director's first foray into film, and it's a definite success.
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